Muvattupuzha - History

There is a myth firmly rooted as to the origin of great land, Kerala. Parasuraman (Rama with the Axe) threw his divine weapon across the sea and created this holly land from waters for the settlement of Brahmins, the Upper class people. It is the story with fertile imagination. However, behind every myth there lives a history of some sort. The Brahmins community settled here gradually declined as a force, as from the rule of ‘Perumals’ (Kings) began. The last Perumal decentralized the power by dividing the kingdom into three separate territories and entrusting the rule with his descendants. Thus three Kingdoms, Kozhikode, Kochi and Venad came into vogue. The later part of the history for some centuries is not so vivid, although it is believed that some tiny states sprang up during this cloudy periods of History.The History of Venad became renascent only after AD 1729, when the mighty king Marthandavarma came to power and ruled over the country with the able and earnest assistance of Ramayyan Dalawa, the Minister, and Dilanoy, the commander in chief of the army. Marthandavarma conquered with ease the small countries of Vadakkumkur and Thekkankur and established the strong Travoncore Kingdome (Thiruvithamkur). Muvattupuzha was then a part of Vadakkumkur.

River valleys are the cradles of civilization and so as Muvattupuzha too. Living witnesses are there to testify that at this juncture of three rivers-The Kothamangalam river, Kaliyar river and Thodupuzha river -industrious and skilled agriculturists settled, cultivated and carried their crops to the Muvattupuzha market through river, in country boats and rafts. There from they used to be transported to Kochi harbour by bullock carts and other means. These traders used to return from Kochi with the various necessaries needed by the local people. Thus, Muvattupuzha was a prominent center by business activity right from quite long times ago. To those who were born and brought up at Muvattupuzha, who have settled there, and who worked there for long, the present surface geography of this place is almost familiar.Close your eyelids for a moment. Draw a profile of past Muvattupuzha in the canvass of your mind. There you can’t find the bridges across the rivers. Approach roads and bypass will be out of picture. Though quite nearby, Muvattupuzha was separated into three lonely forest areas, Kizhakkekara, Vadakkekara and Thekkekara. Kizhakkekara embodied Randarkara, Vadakkekara embraced Kadathy-Vellorkunnam-Kavumkara region and entire Marady village belonged to Thekkekara. These Greenland’s were abode of a wide variety of wild animals like elephants, jackals, and pythons and so on, once upon a time. Just north to Piravom road in the ‘Mayiladi Hills’, also known as ‘Maravady’, where the government servants quarters are constructed, peacocks were dancing. (May be that the place name Marady had its origin from Maravady). Kaithakkulam Hills were the home of Jackals till recently. People still remember the old tribal man ‘Chathan’ who was found of catching the crawling beings and bringing them to the town for exhibition. Upon the trees on the banks of the rivers flocks of bats were hanging. The ground of Puzhakkarakavu was the playground of white monkeys. Groups of elephants used to come out from Veettoor-Mudavoor forests and march ahead to Velloorkunnam River for drinking water and refreshments. The narrow paths through the forests were terrified with robbery and massacre. Organized onslaughts were daily occurrences. These are glimpses of the past History, reminiscent of Muvattupuzha, which as old generation still keeps in their minds.

With a view to enswing governance stability and security, Ramayyan Dalva camped between Padmanabhapuram and Muvattupuzha with his forces. With his headquarters at Arakuzha, Ramayyan and his army fortified all the forts at vital points like Piravom, Muvattupuzha and Thodupuzha. Security arrangements were made tight by establishing observation at the up hills, military and police check posts and depots of arms and ammunitions, wherever warranted. Warehouses were set up to cater to the needs of trade and commerce. One such warehouse was at Kavumpady where the present AEO office stands. People above hundred years have the memory of seen this ‘Pandakasala’. The government had the monopoly over the wholesale and retail trade in Black pepper, Areca nut, Tobacco and so forth. Each ‘Pandakasala’ was under the custody and supervision of a warehouse keeper. There was also an ‘Athani’ at Kavumpady (Athani is a high surface made of granite stones to support loads) to help the pedestrians carrying loads on there heads to unload it and rest. The new generation may be astonished to know that the salt industry at that time was the exclusive property of the state. The distributions of monopoly articles were entrusted with licensed traders through auction almost at par with the present excise auction system.Salt and tobacco were comparatively cheaper in Kochi state in those days. Therefore, to prevent smuggling there were excise check posts at various entrances. The remains of such a check post are still found at Mamala stop near Thiruvankulam on the way to Ernakkulam. It is heard that, in spite of all these, there were clever people who brought tobacco from Kochi, out of way, and made riches. There are stories of bravery of political leaders involved in the independence struggle, who crossed the borders to escape from police custody. As the passage of time, state monopoly over trade ended. Free trade came into being. The two local countries merged to transform to ‘Thirukochi’ (Travancore Cochin). The rule of the king saw its end. Raja became ‘Rajapramkukham’. The check posts disappeared. All became part of history. There were Tollgates and guards at Velloorkunnam Junction, Marady Village office premised near the Thodupuzha Bridge and at the Piravom road junction, which also vanished in due course. Is it not rejoicing to learn that even in the bygone days of long age there were clever people who parked there vehicles away from the gate and just walked ahead freely to avoid toll.At Kavumpady there is a house by name Mandapappally. It is the place where the old ‘Mandapathumvathil’, the revenue office equivalent to the present taluk office, was situated. From there the ‘Adhikari’ or Pravathyar (village Officer) did the administration with the help of his subordinates officially designated as ‘Chandrakaran’, ‘Thorakkaran’, and ‘Valiakkaran’. In the transition of time too many innovations took place. ‘Dalva’ became ‘Divanji’, ‘Karyakkaran’ was designated as Tahsildar. The name ‘Mandapathumvathil, was altered to Taluk office. Judicial and ‘Law and Order’ authorities which were hither to part and parcel of that office were bifurcated and vested with the distinct officers. Civil courts and criminal courts stated functioning at prominent centers. The judicial courts at ‘kateherivalappu’, muvattupuzha are well known for its tradition and reputation. The places surrounding these courts were began to be known as ‘Kateherithazham’, ‘The court Down Street’. In the same office complex treasury and Police station started functioning. Those jail rooms, where notable political workers were locked up with thieves and murderers and brutally tortured do not exist at present on its original form. The sad plight of the political prisoners who were driven to the river with Urine ports in their hands, along with the criminals, for bath and cleansing, upset the minds of the patriot people of muvattupuzha. As an outcome of this, the independence struggle gathered momentum here. Heart broken, many devoted human loving people jumped into the fire and fray of the struggle for freedom. Hardly any political leaders of prominence had missed this place. Almost all the leaders of both congress and communist parties overtly and covertly have visited muvattupuzha. In those days electricity was only hearsay to the people of muvattupuzha. Amplifiers were not in use. In the large meetings held at paddy fields and square junctions, speeches of the leaders were transmitted to the audience by relay shouting from ears to ears united in reaches all those assembled.In the 19th Century when transportation was hazardous muvattupuzha emerged as the centre of administration of the northern sector of Kottayam Division. A ‘Musavari Bungalow’ for the lodging of inspecting officials, an Inn for the passengers, an ‘Oottupura’ for the Brahmins to dine, at Kavumpady, and just behind that a residential building for Brahmins, ‘Perezhuthu madam’, were constructed during this period. Because of the geographically centralized position of Muvattupuzha it developed as the nerve centre of general administration. Muvattupuzha also grew as a centre of business activities as it is the gateway to the High ranges. With the development of road transport the ‘Forest watch station’ working at the point of merger of rivers to regulate the water traffic gradually disappeared. The position of its existence is the ‘Nadukani’ of ‘Triveni’. The movements of Kevuboats and Mchuvas (Country Boats manually operated) through the river were the exciting sights to the younger generation who used to swim and play in the river waters in their fine evenings.When the Katcheri Bridge and Thodupuzha Bridge were completed, road transportation became easy and the volume of traffic enhanced. The style of goods traffic entirely changed. An amusing history steeps behind the old Katcheriahazham bridge completed as long age as 1914. It was constructed under the sole charge and supervision of a British engineer, Emrald, during the regime of Maharaja Sreemoolam Thirunal. L.H.Jacob was the chief engineer of the state then. The design of this bridge resting on three arches under the semi suspension technology was unique.When the expenditure went a loft, it is said, the maharaja sarcastically asked if the Muvattupuzha bridge wad built of gold. The Maharaja Himself arrived at the PWD section office, which was at the sport where the present Municipal office situates and watched the progress of the work. Funny enough, those who laid red carpet to the King were ridiculed well by the angry youths, the story goes on. The inauguration of the bridge was done by then Divanji Mannathu Krishnan Nair. People were sceptic about the concrete technology. They had apprehensions about the strength of the Bridge. To prove the efficiency of the bridge the British engineer with his better half stood in a boat beneath the bridge and twelve elephants were paraded through the bridge simultaneously. There are eyewitnesses to this historical event. Iron rods and cement for the construction of this bridge were imported from England in steel containers. Strong granite stones were brought from Payipra Hills. The ‘Surki’ was made at Kochangadi in the indigenous technology. Thus the Muvattupuzha Bridge, the only one of its kind in India, under the concrete technology, came to be a true identity. The bridge, which is older than Eighty-Six at present, is as young as a boy of sixteen or more.When the British Colonial government started post offices in erstwhile Travancore country, one such office was started at Muvattupuzha which started functioning in an old building at the place were the present Central Telegraph Office functions. From there mailbags were sent to other Indian countries and out side. This post office had a little chronological importance too. The chronometers there showed the British time based on the latitude of Madras. It was same as the Indian Standard Time (IST). As per the latitude just 5 Degree deviating to the west local time of Travancore was 22 minutes behind. This time difference was unconceivable to the laymen.The Travancore Local Government had its own postal system. It was called the Anchal Department. The old Anchal office junction which was also known as the ‘Eratta plavu’ (pair of Jack tree) is the present Post Office Junction. Anchal Boxes were set up in different parts of the Taluk and these places are now known as ‘AnchalPetty’. In every week the ‘Anchalottakkaran’ (Postman) runs from one place to another ringing a bell to collect and distribute letters and money orders. The Travancore Anchal Stamps and coins whereon ‘Sankhu Mudra’ (Sea Shell Symbol) was inscribed have gone into history and turned to be rare antiques now. Only a few local governments were allowed to issue stamps and coins under the British supremacy. History says that three invasions took place in the ground of Muvattupuzha. The first and foremost was the military attack of King Marthanda Varma. Since Vadakkumkur surrendered without much resistance it did not create any harm and disaster. The second was the shadow of the invasion of Tippu who could arrive only up to Alwaye. Tactfully enough, the artificial dam in the Aluva River was left open and in the torrential waters the lust of tippu for Travancore was washed away. Apprehending the attack of Tippu and His militant Muslim soldiers, the Hindus swept away from this area keeping there valuables in wells, beneath the ground and other safe places with the hope of returning when the crises was over. Fortunately Tippu did not turn up. Whether the people ran away returned and took possession of their valuable deposits is a matter known to them only. But stories are there about hidden treasures of gold and other precious things guarded by ‘Bhuthas’ the unknown spirit. There are lucky people who had the fortune to have it and enjoy, if we believe the stories of certain families as narrated by the old generation. The Intrusion of the disastrous epidemic, smallpox, ‘Ammavilayattam’ (the play of the goddess), as some call it, was the third invasion. Upon the hills in front of the present K.S.R.T.C Office, a specialty Hospital, Quarantine, was functioning. There was no effective treatment to this deadly disease. Once caught, death was certain. Thousands of people died and in the hills and slops dead bodies piled up. Though smallpox was eradicated from this Earth the hospital and the hill turned to be a nightmare to those who witnessed this tragedy. These areas were converted into coconut gardens by a private party and later the government acquired it for Police Quarters. Now Majority of this area, the southern slopes, is occupied by the police quarters.In Arakuzha, Unyathiri was some body. The right to collect cess from the country boats between Muvattupuzha and Thodupuzha rested with him. In vallikada, Kalari Paniker and in Mannathoor Chennattukunnel Karthas maintained their supremacy. The Kalari Panicker who hailed from the north established ‘Kalari’ (Gymnasium) between Avoli and Arakuzha. Panicker had plenty of disciples belongings to different communities and religions. The places they settled came to know after their castes like Chettykudy, Kakkalakudy,Kaniyankudy,Moosarikudy,Kollankudy,Velankudy,Mappilamattel and so on. There are many a myth associated with the ‘Angathara’ (Kalari) at Arakuzha. It is a good subject for research to History scholars.In the southeastern part of Muvattupuzha, in the Arakuzha area, including Marady and Muvattupuzha villages, an affluent Nair community came to stay who originally belonged to ‘Azhvancheri’ Samooham. They left Azhavancheri Thambrakkal (Land Lords) and reached Chembazhakunnel at Perumballoor, settled there, and as their number increased, they spread to other parts of Muvattupuzha. In their search for the roots they recognize this old historical connection and relationship. A Pilgrimage to Azhvancherry is still a matter of nostalgia to them.